Zgryźliwość kojarzy mi się z radością, która źle skończyła.
Clinics in Dermatology (2008)
, 318
–
320
26
Reflections on cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and
nutraceuticals
Pierfrancesco Morganti, PhD
a,b,c,
⁎
a
Applied Cosmetic Dermatology, II University of Naples, Naples, Italy
b
Skin Pharmacology, China Medical Unversity, Shenyang, China
c
Mavi Sud srl, Viale Dell'industria 1, 04011 Aprilia (LT), Italy
Introduction
better treatment. The unattractive invite negative feedback
reactions that sustain them in their negative outlooks and
actions. Intelligent cosmetics (cosmeceuticals) have to
decrease the appearance of aging, ameliorating and
decreasing the number and depth of wrinkles. Functional
foods (nutraceuticals) are to be formulated with ingredients
capable of increasing the human expectancy of well-being
and giving eternal youth. Skin is, in fact, the mirror of our
mental state of mind.
The growing health and beauty consciousness consti-
tutes a challenge for both dermatologists and manufac-
turers of cosmetic products, dietary supplements,
functional food, and medical devices (demal fillers).
Therefore, changes in consumer demographics and
advances
There is a time when people feel the need to take a new
path in life, try new activities, exploit growth opportunities,
and face new challenges to ameliorate their way of living.
Personal appearance is becoming more and more individua-
lized, and people desire living and staying young longer. The
result is an increasing number of women and men wanting to
stay attractive and fit, both mentally and physically. This
trend applies not only to the younger generation but also to
all age groups.
Younger people do not want to age, and older people want
to appear younger; however, the older generation plays an
increasingly important role in all of the industrialized
countries, especially in Japan and Italy, where the average
age of the population has increased (
Table 1
).
in technology are the main stimulus
for
cosmeceutical and nutraceutical development.
Lookin’ good
New concepts
Nobody wants to look old. Facial appearance is one of the
most powerful factors influencing social interactions in many
situations. Those who are young and attractive gain advan-
tages, and those who are unattractive may have to work harder
to gain the same advantages. What is beautiful is good.
Thus, everybody assumes that attractive people have
better personalities and favorable attributes, so they receive
Cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals are a constant area of
interest and controversy. They are the magic dream every con-
sumer hopes to realize, and they are the continuing intellectual
challenge for dermatologists and cosmetic chemists.
To achieve this purpose, there are many lines of research
to obtain the eternal life and many new active compounds
studied to provide cosmetics and diet supplements as anti-
aging agents. Dermatologists and biologists increase their
knowledge of the skin
s role, and cosmetic chemists try to
use new active compounds and delivery systems capable of
penetrating into the deeper skin layers.
’
⁎
Mavi Sud srl, Viale Dell'industria 1, 04011 Aprilia (LT), Italy.
Tel.: +39 0 6 92862626; fax: +39 0 6 9281523.
E-mail address:
.
0738-081X/$
–
see front matter © 2008 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
doi:
Reflections on cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and nutraceuticals
319
The efficacy of a cosmetic product depends not only
on the active ingredients but also on the delivery system
to improve its efficacy. We have to remember that skin is
more than an assembly of several layers of cells as
corneocytes, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and so forth, and
that mental well-being and physical relaxation go hand in
hand, complementing each other. Many emotions are first
seen or felt at the skin level. Even surprise, consternation,
or anger translates into interactions that affect the skin by
expression wrinkles. To counteract these wrinkles, there
are muscle-relaxing agents, such as botulinum neurotoxin
(Botox; Allergan Pharmaceuticals Ireland, Irvine, Calif) or
acetyl hexapeptide (ArgiNew; Pharama Cosm Polli,
Milano, Italy) that have shown the interesting activity
that alpha-lipoic acid seems to have for repairing the
condition of aging skin. Freeze-dried elastin concentrate
seems to provide relief from stretch marks. A special
cocktail of vitamin C, beta-glucan, and hyaluronic acid
seems to be active when topically applied on wrinkles
and stretch marks (HCG 1000; Mavi Sud, Rome, Italy).
In addition to the anatomic links (embryology), there are
other functional links between brain and skin. Vasodilatation,
sebaceous excretion, sweating, and piloerection are regulated
by different cerebral neuromediators. Among these media-
tors, peptides seem to play a particularly important role, such
as the substances enkephalin and endorphin. During the last
few years, several research groups have confirmed the
presence of a fully functional beta-endorphin/mu-opiate
receptor system in different cutaneous cell types. This system
has been shown to modulate the migration of keratinocytes
and to be involved in wound healing. It can also regulate the
melanogenesis, dendricity, and proliferation of melanocytes.
Within the endorphin sequence, the 5-amino acid peptide
enkephalin was found and shown to be a powerful,
endogenous, analgesic peptide in the brain, blocking pain
signals. The close relationship between brain and skin
outlined the identification of enkephalins
Table 1
Percentage of people aged 65 years or more
1950
2000
2020
Japan
5.1%
18.2%
25.8%
Italy
8.6%
17.4%
23.2%
France
11.5%
16.0%
20.9%
Germany
9.5%
17.2%
20.2%
Great Britain
10.4%
15.4%
18.5%
Source: Soap Perfumery Cosmetics, London, UK; 2004.
effect, is an ideal candidate for clinical trials of cosmetic use
as an antiwrinkle agent.
Antimicrobial peptides are other interesting small mole-
cules with broad-spectrum activity against bacteria, virus,
and fungi. Cathelicidins and defensins are major groups of
these epidermal peptides that have been shown to be
important in such diverse functions as angiogenesis, wound
healing, and chemotaxis. As an important part of the innate
immune system, they influence both the immediate defense
response and the slower adaptive and repair processes.
Moreover, antimicrobial peptides have a proven ability to
avoid antimicrobial resistance. Recent advanced studies in
antimicrobial peptide research also point to the role these
peptides play in host responses, such as tissue repair and
inflammation. Thus, drugs, cosmeceuticals/nutraceuticals,
and medical devices incorporating these principles could
provide a novel and safe approach to common skin disorders,
such as atopic dermatitis, rosacea, acne, and psoriasis.
Another category of interesting natural compounds is
carbohydrates. Carbohydrates play an important role in
biological recognition phenomena because the tetrasacchar-
ide sialyl compound interacts with selectins and some
adhesion molecules. Because monosaccharides (eg, glucose
or mannose) have these particular properties, they have been
used in the formulation of peptidomimetic drugs. In the
cosmetic field, the amazing properties of the saccharide sugar
make it an ideal ingredient in modern personal care products.
Sugars are multifunctional ingredients capable of helping
formulators to create effective (humectant and healing), natural
(renewal and biodegradable), and preservative-free formulas.
Moreover, sugar-structured surfactant technology has led the
way to use this natural material in cosmetic and personal care.
The real efficacy of a new or old active compounds is not
sufficient to obtain a truly effective cosmetic product. A
product depends not only on the active principles used but
also on the penetrability throughout the stratum corneum,
which strictly depends on the vehicle used. Thus, micro-
dispersed or nanodispersed systems represent a milder way
to enhance penetration and increase the performance of the
cosmetic products. Liposomes, cubosomes, ethosomes, and
lipid nanoparticles are surely the most innovative structures
facilitating delivery of the incorporated active agents into the
skin lipid bilayers. We cannot forget the increased and
sometimes synergized activity checked on by the same active
compound applied topically and taken orally.
’
inlose proximity
to cutaneous nerve cells.
Investigative studies
The fact that keratinocytes are capable of synthesizing
met-enkephalin precursors, such as pro-opiomelanocortin,
led scientists to investigate the topical use of a Tyr-Arg
peptide and its chemical derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-
hexadecylester, which ensures sufficient skin penetration
and bioavailability. Thus when topically applied in a
cosmetic formulation, reduces the transmission of heat,
chemical stinging, and mechanical stresses. Thus, the
activity of this Tyr-Arg derivative seems to be able to
stimulate and release endorphin precursors at the level of
skin cells, blocking the neuromuscular interaction. There-
fore, the transformation of the dipeptide Tyr-Arg into the
more lipophilic and bioavailable NATAH, via a toxic side
320
P. Morganti
Additional research
obtain, for example, greater collagen production to reverse
wrinkles, to normalize pigment transfer to slow down the
appearance of black spots, and to ameliorate the inter-cell
communication to maintain timely keratinocyte exfoliation.
The keystone for the connection between nutraceuticals
and cosmeceuticals is the link among all skin care
professionals, physiologists, biologists, dermatologists, plas-
tic surgeons, cosmetic chemists, beauticians, dieticians, and
innovative enterprises worldwide.
We are living in the era of cosmeceuticals and
nutraceuticals!
According to recent studies, the OH-carotenoid lutein
seems to provide an antioxidant property for both the skin
and the macula lutea of the eye. Moreover, lutein applied on
the skin as a cosmetic and taken orally as a diet supplement
has moisturizing activity and sensibly reduces the free radical
damage caused by ultraviolet rays. Topically applied and
orally ingested lutein may provide a new approach to reduce
premature aging of the skin and mucous membranes.
The goal of dermatologists and cosmetic chemists is to
create new technologies and intelligent products. Discover-
ing innovative cosmetics and diet supplements is the key to
sustainable growth in the area of well-being. Innovation has
the potential to contribute to new products and services
capable of improving the quality of life.
Thus, for the constantly evolving nature of its innovative
products, Mavi Sud was selected last year as the most
innovative Italian Small Medium Enterprise in Europe,
obtaining the Best Innovator award for its patented
production and use of chitin nanofibrils.
Bibliography
1. Morganti P, James B. Polysaccharides and new biomaterials in advanced
Cosmeceuticals. SPC UK 2000;73:34-5.
2. Morganti P, Fabrizi G, Xin-Zhong-Feng, Shu Xian Yang. A new
delivery system to improve acne therapy. Eurocosmetics 2002;10:33-7.
3. Morganti P, Morganti G. Giving absorption a boost. SPC UK 2003;76:
39-42.
4. Morganti P, Fabrizi G, Bruno C. Protective effects of oral antioxidants
on skin and eye function. Skinmed 2004;3:310-6.
5. Morganti P. The case for research and innovation in the cosmetic
industry. CTMW 2005;14:121-4.
6. Morganti P, Bruno C, Fabrizi G, Valenzano F, Morganti G. The
antioxidant network skin and eye: efficacy of carotenoids. J Appl
Cosmetol 2004;22:133-42.
7. Morganti P. Dry skin and moisturization. SOFW J 2004;130:29-34.
8. Palombo M, Morganti P, Palombo P. Laser resurfacing: an innovative
wounddressinginpreandpostopera ivemanagemen .C&T
Manufacture Worldwide 2004;13:144-7.
9. Morganti P, Morganti G.
Conclusions
Iontoforesi e fonoforesi:
il
futuro dei
cosmeceutici. Kosmè 2003;4(anno II):24-33.
10. Morganti P. Assorbimento percutaneo. Principi di fisiologia e
biochimica e nanotecnologia Cosmetic Technology. 2003;6:15-23.
11. Palombo P, Fabrizi G, Ruocco V, Ruocco, Flühr J, Roberts R, Morganti
P. Beneficial long-term effects of combined oral/topical antioxidant
treatment with carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin on human skin: A
double-blinded, plecebo-controlled study in humans. Skin Pharmacol
Physiol 2007;20:199-210.
Cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals were made possible by
the increased understanding of skin physiology and food
necessities. The more we understand the structure and
function of the skin and body, the more we can devises
cosmetics and diet supplements, to modify key pathways.
Aging skin cells can be reprogrammed in their function to
zanotowane.pl doc.pisz.pl pdf.pisz.pl hannaeva.xlx.pl
, 318
–
320
26
Reflections on cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and
nutraceuticals
Pierfrancesco Morganti, PhD
a,b,c,
⁎
a
Applied Cosmetic Dermatology, II University of Naples, Naples, Italy
b
Skin Pharmacology, China Medical Unversity, Shenyang, China
c
Mavi Sud srl, Viale Dell'industria 1, 04011 Aprilia (LT), Italy
Introduction
better treatment. The unattractive invite negative feedback
reactions that sustain them in their negative outlooks and
actions. Intelligent cosmetics (cosmeceuticals) have to
decrease the appearance of aging, ameliorating and
decreasing the number and depth of wrinkles. Functional
foods (nutraceuticals) are to be formulated with ingredients
capable of increasing the human expectancy of well-being
and giving eternal youth. Skin is, in fact, the mirror of our
mental state of mind.
The growing health and beauty consciousness consti-
tutes a challenge for both dermatologists and manufac-
turers of cosmetic products, dietary supplements,
functional food, and medical devices (demal fillers).
Therefore, changes in consumer demographics and
advances
There is a time when people feel the need to take a new
path in life, try new activities, exploit growth opportunities,
and face new challenges to ameliorate their way of living.
Personal appearance is becoming more and more individua-
lized, and people desire living and staying young longer. The
result is an increasing number of women and men wanting to
stay attractive and fit, both mentally and physically. This
trend applies not only to the younger generation but also to
all age groups.
Younger people do not want to age, and older people want
to appear younger; however, the older generation plays an
increasingly important role in all of the industrialized
countries, especially in Japan and Italy, where the average
age of the population has increased (
Table 1
).
in technology are the main stimulus
for
cosmeceutical and nutraceutical development.
Lookin’ good
New concepts
Nobody wants to look old. Facial appearance is one of the
most powerful factors influencing social interactions in many
situations. Those who are young and attractive gain advan-
tages, and those who are unattractive may have to work harder
to gain the same advantages. What is beautiful is good.
Thus, everybody assumes that attractive people have
better personalities and favorable attributes, so they receive
Cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals are a constant area of
interest and controversy. They are the magic dream every con-
sumer hopes to realize, and they are the continuing intellectual
challenge for dermatologists and cosmetic chemists.
To achieve this purpose, there are many lines of research
to obtain the eternal life and many new active compounds
studied to provide cosmetics and diet supplements as anti-
aging agents. Dermatologists and biologists increase their
knowledge of the skin
s role, and cosmetic chemists try to
use new active compounds and delivery systems capable of
penetrating into the deeper skin layers.
’
⁎
Mavi Sud srl, Viale Dell'industria 1, 04011 Aprilia (LT), Italy.
Tel.: +39 0 6 92862626; fax: +39 0 6 9281523.
E-mail address:
.
0738-081X/$
–
see front matter © 2008 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
doi:
Reflections on cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and nutraceuticals
319
The efficacy of a cosmetic product depends not only
on the active ingredients but also on the delivery system
to improve its efficacy. We have to remember that skin is
more than an assembly of several layers of cells as
corneocytes, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and so forth, and
that mental well-being and physical relaxation go hand in
hand, complementing each other. Many emotions are first
seen or felt at the skin level. Even surprise, consternation,
or anger translates into interactions that affect the skin by
expression wrinkles. To counteract these wrinkles, there
are muscle-relaxing agents, such as botulinum neurotoxin
(Botox; Allergan Pharmaceuticals Ireland, Irvine, Calif) or
acetyl hexapeptide (ArgiNew; Pharama Cosm Polli,
Milano, Italy) that have shown the interesting activity
that alpha-lipoic acid seems to have for repairing the
condition of aging skin. Freeze-dried elastin concentrate
seems to provide relief from stretch marks. A special
cocktail of vitamin C, beta-glucan, and hyaluronic acid
seems to be active when topically applied on wrinkles
and stretch marks (HCG 1000; Mavi Sud, Rome, Italy).
In addition to the anatomic links (embryology), there are
other functional links between brain and skin. Vasodilatation,
sebaceous excretion, sweating, and piloerection are regulated
by different cerebral neuromediators. Among these media-
tors, peptides seem to play a particularly important role, such
as the substances enkephalin and endorphin. During the last
few years, several research groups have confirmed the
presence of a fully functional beta-endorphin/mu-opiate
receptor system in different cutaneous cell types. This system
has been shown to modulate the migration of keratinocytes
and to be involved in wound healing. It can also regulate the
melanogenesis, dendricity, and proliferation of melanocytes.
Within the endorphin sequence, the 5-amino acid peptide
enkephalin was found and shown to be a powerful,
endogenous, analgesic peptide in the brain, blocking pain
signals. The close relationship between brain and skin
outlined the identification of enkephalins
Table 1
Percentage of people aged 65 years or more
1950
2000
2020
Japan
5.1%
18.2%
25.8%
Italy
8.6%
17.4%
23.2%
France
11.5%
16.0%
20.9%
Germany
9.5%
17.2%
20.2%
Great Britain
10.4%
15.4%
18.5%
Source: Soap Perfumery Cosmetics, London, UK; 2004.
effect, is an ideal candidate for clinical trials of cosmetic use
as an antiwrinkle agent.
Antimicrobial peptides are other interesting small mole-
cules with broad-spectrum activity against bacteria, virus,
and fungi. Cathelicidins and defensins are major groups of
these epidermal peptides that have been shown to be
important in such diverse functions as angiogenesis, wound
healing, and chemotaxis. As an important part of the innate
immune system, they influence both the immediate defense
response and the slower adaptive and repair processes.
Moreover, antimicrobial peptides have a proven ability to
avoid antimicrobial resistance. Recent advanced studies in
antimicrobial peptide research also point to the role these
peptides play in host responses, such as tissue repair and
inflammation. Thus, drugs, cosmeceuticals/nutraceuticals,
and medical devices incorporating these principles could
provide a novel and safe approach to common skin disorders,
such as atopic dermatitis, rosacea, acne, and psoriasis.
Another category of interesting natural compounds is
carbohydrates. Carbohydrates play an important role in
biological recognition phenomena because the tetrasacchar-
ide sialyl compound interacts with selectins and some
adhesion molecules. Because monosaccharides (eg, glucose
or mannose) have these particular properties, they have been
used in the formulation of peptidomimetic drugs. In the
cosmetic field, the amazing properties of the saccharide sugar
make it an ideal ingredient in modern personal care products.
Sugars are multifunctional ingredients capable of helping
formulators to create effective (humectant and healing), natural
(renewal and biodegradable), and preservative-free formulas.
Moreover, sugar-structured surfactant technology has led the
way to use this natural material in cosmetic and personal care.
The real efficacy of a new or old active compounds is not
sufficient to obtain a truly effective cosmetic product. A
product depends not only on the active principles used but
also on the penetrability throughout the stratum corneum,
which strictly depends on the vehicle used. Thus, micro-
dispersed or nanodispersed systems represent a milder way
to enhance penetration and increase the performance of the
cosmetic products. Liposomes, cubosomes, ethosomes, and
lipid nanoparticles are surely the most innovative structures
facilitating delivery of the incorporated active agents into the
skin lipid bilayers. We cannot forget the increased and
sometimes synergized activity checked on by the same active
compound applied topically and taken orally.
’
inlose proximity
to cutaneous nerve cells.
Investigative studies
The fact that keratinocytes are capable of synthesizing
met-enkephalin precursors, such as pro-opiomelanocortin,
led scientists to investigate the topical use of a Tyr-Arg
peptide and its chemical derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-
hexadecylester, which ensures sufficient skin penetration
and bioavailability. Thus when topically applied in a
cosmetic formulation, reduces the transmission of heat,
chemical stinging, and mechanical stresses. Thus, the
activity of this Tyr-Arg derivative seems to be able to
stimulate and release endorphin precursors at the level of
skin cells, blocking the neuromuscular interaction. There-
fore, the transformation of the dipeptide Tyr-Arg into the
more lipophilic and bioavailable NATAH, via a toxic side
320
P. Morganti
Additional research
obtain, for example, greater collagen production to reverse
wrinkles, to normalize pigment transfer to slow down the
appearance of black spots, and to ameliorate the inter-cell
communication to maintain timely keratinocyte exfoliation.
The keystone for the connection between nutraceuticals
and cosmeceuticals is the link among all skin care
professionals, physiologists, biologists, dermatologists, plas-
tic surgeons, cosmetic chemists, beauticians, dieticians, and
innovative enterprises worldwide.
We are living in the era of cosmeceuticals and
nutraceuticals!
According to recent studies, the OH-carotenoid lutein
seems to provide an antioxidant property for both the skin
and the macula lutea of the eye. Moreover, lutein applied on
the skin as a cosmetic and taken orally as a diet supplement
has moisturizing activity and sensibly reduces the free radical
damage caused by ultraviolet rays. Topically applied and
orally ingested lutein may provide a new approach to reduce
premature aging of the skin and mucous membranes.
The goal of dermatologists and cosmetic chemists is to
create new technologies and intelligent products. Discover-
ing innovative cosmetics and diet supplements is the key to
sustainable growth in the area of well-being. Innovation has
the potential to contribute to new products and services
capable of improving the quality of life.
Thus, for the constantly evolving nature of its innovative
products, Mavi Sud was selected last year as the most
innovative Italian Small Medium Enterprise in Europe,
obtaining the Best Innovator award for its patented
production and use of chitin nanofibrils.
Bibliography
1. Morganti P, James B. Polysaccharides and new biomaterials in advanced
Cosmeceuticals. SPC UK 2000;73:34-5.
2. Morganti P, Fabrizi G, Xin-Zhong-Feng, Shu Xian Yang. A new
delivery system to improve acne therapy. Eurocosmetics 2002;10:33-7.
3. Morganti P, Morganti G. Giving absorption a boost. SPC UK 2003;76:
39-42.
4. Morganti P, Fabrizi G, Bruno C. Protective effects of oral antioxidants
on skin and eye function. Skinmed 2004;3:310-6.
5. Morganti P. The case for research and innovation in the cosmetic
industry. CTMW 2005;14:121-4.
6. Morganti P, Bruno C, Fabrizi G, Valenzano F, Morganti G. The
antioxidant network skin and eye: efficacy of carotenoids. J Appl
Cosmetol 2004;22:133-42.
7. Morganti P. Dry skin and moisturization. SOFW J 2004;130:29-34.
8. Palombo M, Morganti P, Palombo P. Laser resurfacing: an innovative
wounddressinginpreandpostopera ivemanagemen .C&T
Manufacture Worldwide 2004;13:144-7.
9. Morganti P, Morganti G.
Conclusions
Iontoforesi e fonoforesi:
il
futuro dei
cosmeceutici. Kosmè 2003;4(anno II):24-33.
10. Morganti P. Assorbimento percutaneo. Principi di fisiologia e
biochimica e nanotecnologia Cosmetic Technology. 2003;6:15-23.
11. Palombo P, Fabrizi G, Ruocco V, Ruocco, Flühr J, Roberts R, Morganti
P. Beneficial long-term effects of combined oral/topical antioxidant
treatment with carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin on human skin: A
double-blinded, plecebo-controlled study in humans. Skin Pharmacol
Physiol 2007;20:199-210.
Cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals were made possible by
the increased understanding of skin physiology and food
necessities. The more we understand the structure and
function of the skin and body, the more we can devises
cosmetics and diet supplements, to modify key pathways.
Aging skin cells can be reprogrammed in their function to